Islamic art: Maghreb

   

Recently, I was fortunate to have a few long work layovers in the North African cities of  Casablanca, Morocco and Algiers, Algeria.   As in all muslim countries, the Islamic  architecture, art and design is always amazing to me.  I love the intricate geometric shapes and lines either  in marble, wood or on paper.  As well, the calligraphy of Koranic verses, carved or painted  add a fluid shape and contrast to the mathematical geometric forms. 

   

There is a distinct Maghrebi style of Islamic art and architecture, often referred to as Moorish art/architecture, that developed in the western Islamic world (in Andalucia and North Africa). This style has a remarkable unity and is characterized by unique features that set it apart from Islamic art further east.  (the following from AI) 

Key characteristics:

The Maghrebi/Moorish style is known for its intricate surface decoration and specific architectural elements, many of which became classic paradigms that have persisted for centuries. 

Arches:  The horseshoe arch is a ubiquitous and characteristic feature, often wider than its supporting columns. Other common arch types include the polylobed (scalloped) and lambrequin arches.

Calligraphy:  A unique and celebrated form of Arabic script, known as Maghrebi script, developed in the region. It is recognized by its strokes of uniform thickness, rounded letter forms and looped descenders.

Geometric and Vegetal Motifs:  Intricate geometric patterns and arabesque (vegetal/foliate) designs are fundamental elements, often used in telework, carved stucco and wood. 

Zelliji Tilework:  This distinctive style makes extensive use of cut-tile mosaics, know as zelliji, which form  complex geometric arrangements used to adorn walls, floors and ceilings. 

Muqamas:  The use of muqamas (stalactite or honeycomb vaulting) developed in the region under the Almoravids and became a regular decorative feature in domes and arches.

Square Minarets:  Unlike the round or pencil-shaped minarets found in the Ottoman style, those in the Maghreb are typically square or cuboid. 

Riad Gardens:  A traditional architectural element, riad gardens are interior courtyards with a symmetrical four part division, offering a focus on the interior of buildings. 

Major centres of artistic development included cities like Fes, Marrakesh, Granada and Cordoba, where a shared style was synthesized and spread across North Africa and the Iberian Peninsula. 

The following photos are from the famous 14th century Ben Youssef Madrasa (Medersa) in the medina of Marrakesh.  It was once the largest Islamic college in North Africa and is now a historical monument and museum and is considered a masterpiece of Moroccan architecture. 

 

  

  

 

  

  

Back in the narrow alleys of the Medina, I met Sharif, an artisan, is his tiny
studio, who carved these beautiful motifs in plaster. For like 20$ I had 
to get one. 

  

Everywhere in the Medina, amazing doors.

This was inside a local hammam I went to for a scrub down and wash.

 

Once back in Casablanca, I spent the  day exploring the old part of the city after  having visited the spectacular  Hassan II Mosque,  on the corniche, overlooking the Atlantic.   It's the second largest mosque in Africa with a capacity of just over 100 000 worshipers, 25 000 inside and another 80 000 on the huge outdoor grounds of the mosque.  The minaret stands at 60 stories.  

   

    

  

 

  

Underground of the main hall, where worshippers wash themselves before prayers.

  

    

     

A small section of a lower ceiling, all intricately carved in wood
and painted.

  

Six thousand traditional Moroccan artisans worked for five years to create the abundant and beautiful mosaics, stone and marble floors and columns, sculpted plaster moldings and carved and painted wood ceilings. 

   

There was a museum attached where you see examples of the workmanship up close, with detailed explanations of the different materials as well as the techniques involved in the process. 

 

  

  

 

  

Also displayed were many pieces of arabic calligraphy on paper.

   

My work layover in Algiers was also a great experience.  A bonus too was that there are almost no tourists in Algeria. For reasons  known to the government, the country does not promote tourism and it is quite complicated to get a visa.   A welcomed contrast to say, the hordes of tourists meandering in the souk of Marrakesh.   

   

The most famous mosque in Algiers is the Ketchaoua Mosque, a historic landmark known for its mixture of Islamic / Byzantine architecture as well as its conversion to a Catholic Church during the French colonial period and converted back again to a mosque after Algerian independence. It's at the foot of Algiers'  world heritage Casbah. 

    

The Djamaa Sidi Ramdane Mosque, a Sunni mosque and mausoleum in the 
casbah dates back to the 11th century. 

    

  

There were many of these small alcoves in walls with painted
local  scenes on tiles. 

     

    

  

Moorish influence on older government buildings. 

  

Central Post Office

  

   

a public fountain

   

A watercolour I painted from a cafe of a few more mosques
 in the Casbah. 

  

The next few photos are from the Alhambra, in Grenada,  Spain, where I visited several years before. It is a fortress complex representing the pinnacle of Moorish architecture during the Nasrid dynasty (13th - 15th century) as the last Muslim stronghold in Spain before the Reconquista. Now a Unesco World heritage site, it features intricate tile work, calligraphy, courtyards and gardens and showcasing Islamic artistry, geometric mastery and advanced engineering. It was later used as a fortified citadel and a royal city under Christian rulers.  

  

  

  

  

  

    

Islamic influence in the architecture in the streets of Grenada.

      

   

Montréal

 

I had the opportunity to get a temporary base transfer to Montreal for work, for the months of September and October.   I was excited for all the flying to new and different destinations, mostly to Europe and North Africa.  However, I was also looking forward to spending time in Montreal.  I was able to stay at a friend's place, in the neighbourhood of Hochelaga, in east Montreal.  I had spent two years in the city, in my early twenties, at two different "quartiers".  One of which  was quite close to where I was staying now.  The neighbourhood was a lot grittier and tougher back then.  Now, like so many places, slowly gentrifying.

Montreal is famous for its buildings with external stairs.  This was a result of building codes and taxes in the 19th century that had regulations for houses to be  built a certain distance from the road.  The external stairs were a way having more space in the apartments.  They are also everywhere in back lanes, where they tend to be spiral. 

  

    

   

Older houses have nice decorative rooftops and window frames.

    

  

       

   

As Montreal is one of the older cities of North America,  you see many buildings out of stone, with styles not unlike what you find in Europe.  I was impressed by the many church and cathedral spires, most of which are in copper,  oxidized to a light green.  As the population of practicing  Catholics decreased,  several churches stopped functioning, some converted to condos,  others changing from their original denominations.

     

   

  

    

    

    

    

Oratoire Saint Joseph (huge, and on a hill) 

   

    

  

Montreal was the largest city in Canada up until the early seventies, when it was surpassed by Toronto. As well, it was the hub of finance in the early 20th century.  Many institution's architecture reflect its past position of power and importance.  There has always been a sort of competitive streak between Montreal and Toronto.  The former, was known as a sin city, with it's strip bars and much looser regulations on alcohol and bars while the latter, known as 'Toronto the good' more reminiscent of British conservatism (pubs closing early etc).  This was back in the 50s though...   Toronto's population is much larger now, and arguably  more multicultural.  Still, Montreal pushes above its weight in terms of culture and character and,  of course, the metropolis of French Canada and is still the second largest French speaking city in the world after Paris. 

 

 

   

  

   

Dépanneur (literally repairman) is the ubiquitous corner store for a
quick snack or beer.

    

        

A 2$  'all-dressed' steamed dog from the Montreal Pool Room.
An institution on St.Laurent. 

      

Across the street, an old strip club (with tacky graphics)

      

As the city's underground metro system was mostly developed in the 60s and 70s, there is a considerable amount of brutalist architecture.  One rainy day, I decided to check out the most popular ones. Deep cavernous stations in concrete with a variety of styles. 

   

 

Of course, the crowning glory of the city's brutalist architecture would be both Habitat 67 (built for the city's expo of that same year) and the Olympic stadium,  for  the 1976 olympics. The stadium had not been fully completed until years after.   The retractable roof is apparently going through its third version.  The  stadium has been  cursed with so many problems and has probably had the largest ballooning budget of any building in Canadian history.  Yet, there it is, an icon of the city. 

   

    

       

  

     

The Olympic village complex, two pyramid like structures that are now condos. 

     

  

Habitat 

    

"Blocked road"... the city is infamous for its orange cones...  so many repairs of old
infrastructure  and  construction  from spring until fall. 

   

   

   

 

  

When in Mtl...  bagels!

    

The street art in the city is impressive as is its public art.  With its old buildings and back alleys there are hundreds of murals throughout all neighbourhoods.  I enjoyed snapping pix as I cycled around town  some, still there and recognizable from years ago,  some ever changing. 

 

     

Several dead trees  in a park where they left 12 ft 'stumps'
in which were carvings. 

    

A colossal commissioned  mural of Leonard Cohen by 'El Mac' one
of the top street artists in the world, from LA. 

  

     

  

  

  

'Rocket Richard' the legendary Habs player. 

A mosaic tribute to the singer Lhasa de Sela, who had lived in
the neighbourhood of Mile End.

 

  

 

  

  

  

My home away from home.