My first time in Hong Kong was over thirty years ago. I have been going back regularly with my work since the year 2000. Every time I go, I am always amazed as I look out the window of the bus from the airport to the city centre. So many towers over green sub-tropical mountains. Water and islands everywhere. A beehive of human activity. One of the largest container ports in the world. A financial hub. With a population of 7.5 million, Hong Kong is not that big compared to many other Asian cities. However, it has one of the highest densities of people per square km due to its geographical setting of mountains and islands. Space is so limited that everything is built upwards.
As a former British colony up until twenty five years ago, the city, made up of mostly Chinese with a small percentage of SE Asian and western expats, has gone through many changes in the last 20 years. Beijing is asserting its control despite the "one country, two systems" that was trumpeted during the handover in 1997. Its role as a gateway to China for the rest of the world has greatly diminished as well, as Chinese cities have prospered and deal directly with the rest of the world. Yet Hong Kong, with its spectacular setting, it's history, culture and vibrancy remains one of the most unique and famous cities in the world that still draws so many people to it, wether it be tourists or those in search of a better life.
Star Ferry, the iconic passenger ferries that cross Victoria Harbour from Central and Wanchai to Kowloon, have been in operation, in different forms, since the early 1900s.
Central, Hong Kong island.
New tower complexes going up near the airport on Lantau island.
The International Commerce Centre, at 108 stories, is the tallest building in Hong Kong, situated in Kowloon.
Cantonese food, the main cuisine of Hong Kong amongst many other kinds of Chinese and international dishes available.
Nothing like a dim sum when going out to eat with several people.
Apart from the Central business district, outdoor markets can be found almost everywhere in the territory.
"Lai-cha" aka Hong tea, is a strong black tea mixed with evaporated milk, almost bitter, therefore you need some sugar. So good with a pineapple bun.
A Mecca for shopping and a favourite pastime for locals and visitors alike, there is no tax for most items.
True meaning of the 'urban jungle', Hong Kong is famous for its neon signs across the entire street. Sadly, many are now disappearing as the government has deemed the ageing signs as hazards. There is a society trying to salvage many of them for a future museum of neon signage.
Central
They're "loving it"
The famous British colonial Peninsula Hotel in Kowloon, one of the oldest and most prestigious hotels in the city.
The infamous Chungking Mansion on Nathan Road, Kowloon. How many books or films could be made of the human drama that goes on in these dozens of boarding room hotels? The main floor is a series of money changers, Indian food stalls, suit tailors, African goods... all for the ever changing population of people that live upstairs, many fresh off the boat from other parts of the world, making a go at a new life in Hong Kong. I first went there in 1991, and stayed in a cockroach ridden, cramped dorm for a few nights. Back then, it was at the top of the list of cheap places to stay for backpackers in the Lonely Planet guide. It recently has had a new facade makeover with fresh paint and a new sign.
Mongkok
It's almost mind boggling the amount of complex towers, often in clusters of anywhere from ten to twenty buildings, with an average of 50+ storeys. This one on Lantau island.
"Despite all my rage, I am still just a rat in a cage" That song always pops up in my head when I see these sorts of housing complexes.
Known as "Monster building" in Quarry Bay, this is one of the oldest and densest residential buildings in Hong Kong. The units are very small with thousands of inhabitants in a relatively small footprint of a U shaped tower.
Another older residential tower in the background of Hong Kong island's classic double decker tramways, that have been operating since the early 1900s. North Point.
An older block of only 5 stories with, as is the custom, clothes hanging out the windows and the ubiquitous air con boxes. Kowloon City.
Tung Chung, Lantau island.
Aberdeen and Ap Lei Chau island from the air.
Big Buddha, Lantau Island
One of the many outer islets seen from the plane shortly after take-off.
Tsim Sha Tsui, Kowloon.
Impressive are the banyan tree roots that spread their tentacles on urban walls.
Perhaps surprisingly, thanks to all the mountains, there are many hiking trails where one can escape the the crowded city. This one on the spine of eastern HK island called Dragon's back overlooking the undeveloped southern coast.
Even in Victoria Harbour, amongst million dollar yachts, you will see small and old watercraft of every shape and size.
Aberdeen
Kowloon
Aberdeen
An inventive way of using two old windsurf boards to go fishing. Stanley.
The functioning Chinese trading junk vessels have sadly vanished from Hong Kong waters by the mid 80s. There are a couple of them left that are used for tourists.
photos by William Heering, from a great book I bought on South China coastal trading junks called Coasting Past.
Hong Kong is in perpetual construction. Remarkably, bamboo is used for scaffolding on all buildings.
The urban jungle, with narrow lanes, almost like slot canyons, on the backside of towers. The buildings pipes and air con units are usually found here.
Despite the density, it's a very clean city.
HK's favourite Hollywood son, Bruce Lee.
Every Sunday, thousands of Filipino and Indonesian domestic workers, the majority women, get together for picnics all over the city. Their only day off to socialize with their friends.
No, not homeless tents... the Sunday expat picnics.
The old Kai Tak airport in Kowloon City was incredible as planes flew so close to buildings on their descent. The terminal closed in 1998 and is now a cruise ship terminal. Several pilots I have spoken to remember it fondly with its difficult approach wherein there was a 45 degree turn at the very last minute before landing.
The notorious Kowloon Walled city, torn down in the early 90s, was considered the densest settlement on earth. There were 33 000 inhabitants living within the space of one large city block. It was a historical accident. The site was a former Qing dynasty fortress that never fully came under regulation of the British colonial government in Hong Kong. As a result, its residents were free to build their dwellings as they wished, ignoring safety codes. As Greg Girard, an expat who photographed the walled city over several years said, "It was a monstrosity of buildings. Quite often houses were built by building onto the next building, punching out walls to use their staircases. Many of them did not have access to air or open space as they were enclosed in the centre of the structure." Deep within the darkness, a variety of small business flourished, all unregulated, from meat 'factories' to clothes making shops. At one point, 70% of all fish balls in Hong Kong came from there. Of course there were drugs and gangs and apparently police never ventured into its dark alleys. However overall, ordinary people lived ordinary lives, everything worked, including the ingenuity of pipes to get water, using conserved electricity, up to the higher floors. There is now a park at the site, with a few small buildings as a museum to what once was an extraordinary story of human living settlements.
Central, Victoria Harbour and Kowloon as seen from the Peak.
